I snacked on these often when, as a child, I visited my grandparents in Deal, New Jersey. The recipe belonged to my great-aunt Hetty Frank, my paternal grandfather’s sister. These lovely little cookies, which attest to the Eastern European roots on that side of the family, have an intriguing flavor that makes them a refreshing departure from biscuits or shortbread with a cup of tea. They are also nice for dessert, paired with ripe strawberries or a bowl of fresh fruit salad.

My grandmother Minna Greenbaum and her sister-in-law Hetty undoubtedly used margarine back then, but I prefer the taste and texture of these cookies when they’re baked with sweet butter. This is one of three recipes from this collection that I contributed to Molly O’Neill’s New York Cookbook.