I got the original version of this recipe from a woman named Christine when we were both working at a small vegetarian restaurant in Paris more than 40 years ago. Christine was an American also, and she was a terrific cook. (I worked in the kitchen in the morning and waited tables at lunch on Saturdays in exchange for a free meal. Ah, those student days!)

Christine made this cake with whole wheat flour, and she glazed it with a lemony sugar syrup. I found it highly addictive at the time. I’ve adapted the recipe, using white flour and dispensing with the sticky glaze, to make it lighter and simpler. It’s perfect for afternoon tea, and these small loaves are great for giving. For the best flavor, make it a day ahead.