Wheaten bread is a whole wheat soda bread that the Irish eat year-round, not just around St. Patrick’s Day. In fact, soda breads of all shapes, sizes, and varieties abound in shops, markets, and on tables at all times of day and night. Often baked free-form, they are also baked in loaf pans. My husband and I tasted many different ones during our recent trip to Ireland. The best one was served at breakfast at our hotel in Dublin; it was tender, moist, and flavorful—almost cakelike. I praised it. I exalted it. I begged for the recipe, but the chef demurred. So I’ve come up with my own wheaten loaf. And it’s damn good.

I had been focused on making yeasted breads for so long, I’d never given soda breads a thought. All that’s changed now. The beauty of soda bread is that you can measure the ingredients, stir the batter by hand, and put the loaf directly into the oven. No kneading and no waiting for the dough to rise—twice. The whole process takes only about an hour from start to finish. Delicious for breakfast, tea, or a late-night snack.