Call me old-fashioned. I still make my own applesauce, just like my mother and my grandmother did. Now, you can too. The trick is to cook tart, highly colored apples—like Empires or Ida Reds—with the skins on and to purée them by hand through a food mill. The skins, stems, and seeds stay behind, but the sauce retains the blush of the fruit. Not only will you get a delicious treat, but you’ll also fill the kitchen with the irresistible aroma of another era. I generally don’t feel the need to add any sugar or lemon juice to my applesauce, but you might want to, depending on each batch of apples. Chill the cooled sauce first. Then, taste and correct as you see fit just before serving.